Sunday, March 9, 2014

Standing in the English rain

I never thought I’d have the opportunity to visit London. All my life I’ve dreamt about going and, last weekend, my dreams were matched by reality.
We stayed in Paddington from which we were able to travel throughout London proper with ease.

Here are my favorite moments:

Bus Tour

Led by a tour guide, Ingrid, we had the chance to whiz by major sights including Westminster, St. Paul’s Cathedral, Buckingham Palace, and the Tower of London. As we passed monument after monument, I realized I had some major decision making ahead of me, as many opportunities await tourists in the city.
When we passed the Savoy Theater and Ingrid mentioned that "Dirty Rotten Scoundrels" was playing there, starring Robert Lindsey, one of my favorites (from one of my favorite British comedies, "Spy").
Ingrid also talked about the presence of Qatari's across the city, funding projects like the Shard—tallest building in London, Harrods, and a series of apartment buildings with the highest real estate value in the city, equating to tens of millions of dollars per flat.
About half way through the tour, we made our way to Buckingham Palace and watched the changing of the guard amongst a large crowd. This was the moment in which—apart from enjoying the guard—I became aware of the diversity in London just by listening to the many languages I heard in the crowd. I believe I heard Arabic, mandarin Chinese, French, Spanish and German, but I cannot be entirely certain about all of them.
When we passed by St. Paul’s (a place I didn’t make it back to, unfortunately) Ingrid talked about the colossal effort of volunteers, known as St. Paul's Watch, to protect the Cathedral from damage during the World War II blitz. Had it not been for those volunteers, the Cathedral would not be in the shape it is today. The theme of wartime camaraderie would return even stronger for me later in the trip as I visited the Churchill War Rooms (read on for more).

Westminster Abbey

A few hours after our bus tour (which ended at Covent Garden), a few friends and I grabbed lunch and toured the city—eventually ending up back at Westminster—where we marveled at the houses of parliament and the Elizabeth Tower. Soaked by the English rain, we luckily arrived in time for a service at the equally astonishing Westminster Abbey. A site of coronations (from William the Conqueror), burials (including Charles Darwin, Ben Johnson, Charles Dickens and Sir Isaac Newton—among others) and royal weddings (obligatory Kate Middleton and Prince William comment here), the church is steeped in history. The acoustics in the building for the choir combined with a powerful silence in moments of prayer made for a unique sensory experience—though I would have liked a tour to learn a bit more about the building’s history.

British Museum

Impressed by the building alone, I entered with little idea of the millions of artifacts awaiting me inside. Our tour guide told us about the importance of the library inside the building, used by people like Marx (to write the Communist Manifesto) and Lenin.
*Food for thought: Individual panes of glass cover the “courtyard” inside the British Museum—between the outer building and the library.  The inner building is not exactly centered so, to give the appearance of symmetry, a team of designers used a computer program to create a glass ceiling that, using pieces of glass, could give the illusion of symmetry in the courtyard area. Each pane of glass has a unique shape.
Among our selected sites, we saw the Rosetta stone (with Egyptian hieroglyphs, Demotic writing, and Greek), part of a statue of Ramasses II, the Sutton Hoo Burial with Anglo-Saxon artifacts, and Cleopatra’s sarcophagus. Apart from these major artifacts, we saw a collection of African art including a throne constructed from weapons (including swords and firearm magazines), expansive collections of Greek and Roman art, and briefly looked at a few other exhibits including one on the history of clocks and timekeeping and another on the historical significance of money.
As I walked through the massive libraries and saw thousands of bookshelves alongside major artifacts I thought about how the museum was, by far, the most iconic building for history that I had ever seen in my life. I hope I can return and, for those of you that want to visit London, make sure to get in a full day at the museum—my time there was rather short. I will post pictures of the museum in the slideshow feature.

London Eye
The London Eye is the largest Ferris wheel in Europe. In a slow rotation, the ride is very comfortable and you are able to walk around the pods and take in a panoramic view of the city—looking down areas like Westminster to the major modern buildings (e.g. "the shard," "walkie talkie,") of London.





Churchill War Rooms

Down below the Treasury building in Westminster and beneath a layer of reinforced steel and concrete known as “the slab” lies one of the best kept secrets in London and my favorite place I visited. From these rooms, Winston Churchill directed the war effort in World War II. Spending 15 hours a day working with a devoted staff of military directors, civilian typists, and media personnel, many worked under artificial light for hours as bombs reined down on the city. From this concrete cave, instead of misery arose determination and heart as these qualities emanated from Churchill.
We slowly made our way from room to room—from his transatlantic telephone room where he communicated with other world leaders (as demonstrated in our audioguide through a reenacted transcript between Churchill and FDR), to his bedroom, to the dining room, to the media control room, to the map room—used by the Royal Navy, British Army, and Royal Air Force.
Map Room in the Cabinet War Rooms, Copyright Kaihsu Tai
In addition to the war rooms, there is a massive museum housed underneath as well. With pieces including Churchill’s preferred one-piece suit, his cigars, sunlamps used by those with him, a lock of Churchill's childhood hair, and private letters between Churchill and his wife Clementine, I would describe the museum as thorough, to say the least.
In addition to many of Churchill’s personal effects, I found the amount of supplementary material including a thorough audio guide accompanying each room and area of the museum, video testimonials from those who worked with Churchill, and recordings of Churchill’s speeches to be fascinating. Additionally, the museum has a light table where visitors can search by year and month and pour through important dates and documents from Churchill’s life and career.
Churchill served a prescient purpose in making bold predictions and staying true to his convictions. The museum gives a very unbiased portrayal of the man and, even after looking through some of his flaws (including opposition to India’s independence from Britain), I felt inspired by the guy. He followed his intuitions about Hitler, he thought highly of his company (in both his experience as a soldier and leader), and he thrived under pressure—though he fatigued greatly because of it.

Rapid Fire:

St. James Park

Located in front of Buckingham Palace, this park has ponds and lush greens, alive with squirrels, pelicans, swans, and ducks. This was one of the most idyllic city parks I have been in and, though I couldn't make it to the vast Hyde Park, I realized why London is renowned for its parks—more than any other large city in Europe.






King’s Cross Station, 221B Baker Street

Needed to add these two locations to my list, even if just for a few moments. I took the tube (metro) to these two places and had fun reliving some of my favorite childhood film/book interests at platform 9 and 3/4 and outside Sherlock's mythical apartment.






Camden Market

Filled with tourists, trinkets, and food—Cambden Market could easily take days of exploring. Unfortunately, I only had an hour and a half. For that reason I explored shops quickly and shoveled in a burrito before catching the tube back to the hotel for our bus back to the airport.

Sevilla y el sabor de Andalucía

Sevilla felt a lot like one of those dreams where no matter how hard you try to run, you still end up moving slowly. Sevilla's bustling social atmosphere and its many attractions including massive parks, towers, and cathedral were just enough to make me appreciate life in Andalucia, the southernmost autonomous region in Spain, the likes of which Sevilla shares with cities like Granada, Córdoba, and Cadiz.

Highlights

Flamenco

I can honestly say I emotionally invested in this performance. The stage was simple: slightly elevated with two chairs. Broken up into acts, the performance used only four people (in different combinations and varying tempos). The vocals, (cante) performed by one male singer in this case, made for a melody unlike anything I'd heard before—and clearly shows a mix in its Arab and Spanish roots—almost like a mix between a prayer call and a forlorn love song. In between the vocal range of the singer and the sporadic guitar (toque) skills of the guitarist, the dancing (baile) put the show over the top for me. One man and one woman clapped their hands (called palmas) and danced with extreme precision. As I watched their feet quickly and violently slamming against the dance floor (verb in Spanish: taconear) it was obvious that they had all poured years into their artform.

Torre del Oro

My favorite building in Seville. Built in the 1200s, this tower served a Moroccan dynasty (Almohads) to control port access to Seville. The tower, this is now according to Wikipedia, is built from mortar, lime, and pressed hay. Apparently, there used to be another tower on the other side of Rio Guadalquivir and people would drag a chain across to block off the river. Unfortunately, I didn't make it to the naval museum inside the tower, but it was a joy to look from the outside.
Parque de Maria Luisa, Plaza de España
Aside from this being used in Star Wars, this park was built for the Ibero-American Exposition World's Fair in the1920s. The park includes fountains, ponds, and a variety of tropical trees. The plaza itself, the major feature of the park, includes a small moat around the edge where people rent row boats and enjoy Sevilla's sunshine. An art deco masterpiece, the plaza also boasts impressive brickwork with tile inlays—all kept pristine. The plaza today includes the town hall, and a few museums. Since we had free time, we rented what I call "bike carts" (pretty much a pedal-powered golf cart) and rode through the park's paths (these pictures will be added to a Sevilla slide show).

Alcazar
This building was initially a Moorish fortress and is the oldest palace still used in Europe. The building contains examples of "mudéjar" architecture, meaning it was built by Muslims during Christian times. My favorite feature was the integration of Roman columns in the building (as the mudejares used the Roman remnants to support their structures, making for less work). This is made even more interesting by the Romans' use of prehistoric artworks and stones to build their structures (making for a repeating pattern, at least to me).
The upper levels of the Alcazar are used for the royal family of Spain, though the family hasn't visited in years. Still, people maintain the rooms in the event they decide to show up (this made me feel for those that have to maintain the rooms for no particular purpose).
We visited Los Baños de María de Padilla and also made our way to La Casa de Contratación (house of trade) where Columbus met with Ferdinand after his second journey. The chapel contains one of the first paintings of the discovery of the Americas.
Also, there is a fantastic garden (of course) with a labyrinth, fountains, and buildings made for the Andalusian summers.

Plaza de Toros de la Real Maestranza de Caballería de Sevilla

This is the oldest bullring in the world. During the Seville Fair in Semana Santa, the plaza has one of the most renowned bullfighting events in the world. Here, bullfighting on foot began in the 1700s. WIth a guided tour, we looked at art pieces depicting bullfights, some sculptures, matador (or torero) outfits, and bull heads placed around the ceiling (which made me feel quite uneasy, to be honest). Apparently, when a matador has done well, he may be awarded between one and two of the bull's ears, and also the bull's tail. Because I feel weird writing about this, I'm going to move on!




Catedral de Sevilla

La Giralda
Small view of part of the Cathedral's
 exterior.
Finally, we make it to the Sevilla Cathedral
(Catedral de Santa María de la Sede). us's body. This Roman Catholic Cathedral is the largest Gothic cathedral and third-larges church in the world. It was completed in the 16th century. The Cathedral is actually an adaptation of an ancient mosque. The minaret (used to call Muslims to prayer) converted into a bell tower (La Giralda) and the orange tree patio (Patio de los naranjos) are the two remaining elements of the mosque. The rest pertains to the 16th century cathedral.

There are 15 elaborate entrances to the Cathedral. Inside, there are 80 chapels. Here are the dimensions to give you an idea of the size of this building: Length 443 ft * Width 330 ft (at nave,main body of the church, 49 ft) * Height (138 ft). Meant to demonstrate the city's wealth, I'd say the builders completed their goal. There is a massive altarpiece inside depicting the life of Christ and was the work of one craftsman. Unfortunately, the piece was under renovation when we visited.

Rapid fire: The good and the weird (not mutually exclusive)

+Eating bull tail at a tapas bar
+Seeing a Spaniard playing American folk music outside the cathedral
-Watching a pack of wild cats devour a dead animal in a gully
-Nearly stepping on a vendor's "artfully-placed" collection of paper fans meant to catch tourists off guard