Wednesday, April 23, 2014

Granada: De interior y exterior

My next stop, Granada, located well east of Córdoba, offers mountainous landscape and great ocean access about an hour away. In the background of the city towers the Sierra Nevada, and perched above the city is the Alhambra, the most complete representation of Moorish architecture in Spain with a violent and sordid past. Granada is Spanish for pomegranate. Like the fruit, the city is sweeeeet!

La Alhambra

Me on top of the Alcázar.
There is so much information about the Alhambra that I will refer you to that information instead of offering my own! The Alhambra stands above the city, with steep drop-offs surrounding most of it. You can see perfect symmetry in some of the buildings reflected off pools of water and look at geometrical, natural, and religious (Arabic script) designs that fill every crevice. My favorite feature was the Patio de los Leones, named for its fountain surrounded by 12 lions, representing the 12 tribes of Israel. I also found complete relaxation in the smells, views, and sounds in the garden of Generalife, which we jokingly pronounce as "general life" like a health insurance provider.


Patio—Palacio de los Nazaríes (Arab reign)


Symmetrical and proportional patio.


Script praising Allah—surrounded by
geometrical and natural engravings.


This design is called mocaáabes,
 it is like the tope of a cave.





Patio de los Leones.


Hedges in Generalife.


Palacio de Carlos V—added on later and
very out of place in the Alhambra.




Capilla Real y Catedral 

This chapel is home to the tombs of Fernando and Isabella, referred to as the Reyes Católicos, or Catholic Kings, the founders of Spain. Their reign sought an end to moorish influence in Spain. A brilliant altarpiece presides over the chapel including panels including religious and historical significance—as shown in one panel where the final Muslim ruler Boabdil turned over the keys to the city and left his land behind.
The rest of the cathedral was just brilliant. As I am accustomed to darker cathedrals, the bright interior of the Granada cathedral was a nice change of pace.

Cuevas de Sacramonte



With a tour guide, we made our way into this commune where people eek out a living in small cave dwellings. Some spend years cutting out brush, carving out more space in their caves, and making a permanent residence for themselves. People of all backgrounds use the caves, including the poor and the rich. One hovel had a solar panel, windows, and insulation. Our tour guide really made a case for the caves as a major characteristic of the city. Recently, the city came without notice and bulldozed the cave of a senegalese family. The day we went, we saw a group of volunteers digging out the cave and building it back up, brick by brick.

La Albaicín

This traditional Arab neighborhood is a carefully-plotted network of narrow streets leading
up into the hills. The area is sought after by home owners and is a very hip area of the city. There is an awesome mirador (lookout) with a view of the entire city and of the Alhambra shimmering vermillion at night.




La Alcaicería 




This is an old "zoco" or Arab market which now offers souvenirs and products like tapestries and glassware. I really enjoyed the contrast between this site and the Cathedral immediately adjacent.








Tapas
Granada brings home what Spain's all about. In nearly every bar, you will receive a hearty tapa with your drink. I sat in the street with friends and filled up on a nice variety of tapas from albóndigas (meatballs) to risotto. The atmosphere was very welcoming and when all was said and done there were some great deals.



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